Sunday, 22 December 2024

ATS-20 / ATS20+ and goshante firmware

 Having recently acquired an ATS-20+ and reading a whole bunch of mis-leading info on the internet regarding changing firmware and modifying it, I decided to write this to help some others and to remind myself of the process!

To change the firmare (software) in the ATS-20+, I simply needed to upload a (hex) file or use the Arduino IDE to compile the firmware and upload.
I found the best firmware that suited my needs is the 'goshante' ATS_EX_v1.18
The original goshante firmware is available here:
https://github.com/goshante/ats20_ats_ex

There seems to be a lot of people struggling to upload this hex file so I have made a zip file of the needed software, including the goshante firmware,
The software I use is called xLoader and I have tweaked it to simplify the setting for either ATS-20 with old or new bootloader.
Download it below, but read this first...

Download and extract the xLoader app and files, maybe extract it on your desktop for now.

You simply need a USB cable to plug into the rear of the ATS-20/ATS-20+.
As soon as you do this, Windows should recognise it and add a COM port in device manager.
A simple way to find the correct COM port is to first open device manager and click on Ports (COM & LPT) to expand the options.
Now, once you have this open, plug the USB cable into the ATS-20, the COM port should now appear!
There is no need to fiddle with any of the COM port settings, leave them at their default.

Once you have determined the correct COM port for the ATS-20, use that port number in the xLoader application.

Open the xLoader app inside the xLoader folder and when opened:
Browse to the HEX file you want to flash (I have included two in the xLoader folder)
Choose the Device from the dropdown - I've named 2 typical types and each will set the correct Baud rate in the Baud rate field
Select the correct COM port you found as above

As I understand it, the old bootloader requires a Baud rate of 57600 and the new bootloader requires 115200.

Once you are happy all settings are correct, hit the Upload button and wait a while whilst it uploads.
Your ATS-20 should reboot at the end of flashing.
Unplug the USB cable and power off the ATS-20.
Now, press and hold the rotary 'TUNE' knob on the front of the ATS-20 and turn the power on, once it starts you can release the knob.  It will reset all Eprom data and then start the new firmware.  ** This is a very important step, so don't forget to do it**

The xLoader interface is so much simpler to use...

Inside the unzipped xLoader folder, I have put the original goshante v1.18 firmware and also a slightly tweaked version, named goshante-ATS_EX_v1.18-G4ZAL.hex where I have reduced the number of SW frequencies and made it so they only reflect the Amateur radio bands, which I find faster to move up and down the bands with.  I made no other changes to the firmware.  Use it if it's any use to you.
I offer no warranty as to any of it's usefulness and you use the download files at your own risk ;-)

DOWNLOAD the xloader app and files in zipped format, right click and 'save link as' from HERE.

You may experience Microsoft Windows 'protecting' you by blocking the download, suggesting it has a virus, this is not the case.  You may have to click 'keep' during the initial download.
As a temporary measure, you could add an 'exception' to your 'Downloads' folder, as described by Microsoft, HERE.  Once you have successfully downloaded and extracted the files, remove the exception again, just to be on the safe side.

I also modded the ATS-20+ hardware to show the battery charge state, but only when the ATS-25+ is powered on!  Use 2 x 10k ohm resistors to form a voltage divider and solder them as shown...
Pick up the battery voltage from the pin with red wire, ground from the Nano board (black wire) and the voltage divider output (white wire) to pin A2 on the Nano.
I used SMD resistors but normal wired resistors are perfectly adequate providing you take care to insulate the leads.

Click the image to go SUPERSIZE


Sunday, 20 October 2024

X5105

Recent acquisition is a Xiegu X5105.
The nice thing about the X5105 is that it has it's own built in battery (good for a few hours operating), a built in ATU, built in speaker, built in microphone and PTT button.
This makes it an all-in-one radio for 160m through to 6m with 5W output.

3D printed a bracket to mount a mini telescopic fibreglass fishing rod and made it into an HF 'walkie talkie'.

Click images to go SUPERSIZE...




Need to see how it performs when hooked up to my loading coil...




Saturday, 6 July 2024

Sunday, 25 February 2024

N2ADR wifi Buffer

 

Initial test of Jim's N2ADR wifi Buffer.

Installed on Raspberry Pi 1 with USB wifi dongle(s) following these instructions from Github...
https://github.com/jimahlstrom/HL2WifiBuffer

All current testing is on my LAN.

As the R-Pi 1 does not have wifi, I tested both of these dongles, results were disapointing, with stuttering in Quisk and unuseable with Thetis.  Both are designed for R-Pi and are 'plug n play' in Raspbian.  The R-Pi was only about 6 feet/2 metres away from the wifi router in my shack.

As always, click any image to go SUPERSIZED!


Next test was with a USB ethernet cabled adapter, and setup (eth1) as the wifi adapter in the hl2_wifi_buffer.txt file.
Results are very encouraging in Rx, but using Thetis in Tx resulted in errors, Quisk rarely threw an error in Tx.  In both instances I was using VOX.




Thetis is rather bandwidth hungry at ~22.6 Mbits/sec download rate (19200 sample rate), whereas Quisk is ~9.9 Mbits/sec (9600 sample rate).
This would explain why Thetis was unuseable on my wifi dongles.

When using Pure Signal, it's advised to use 19200 sample rate.

Also, when using VOX I have an issue where VOX keeps tripping at the end of an over as there is a large 'pop' of audio on reverting to Rx and VOX constantly activates/de-activates until I disable VOX.
This will surely need fixing for me as I quite like VOX as opposed to spacebar PTT.



Thursday, 1 February 2024

Multiple instances of Thetis

How to run multiple instances of Thetis or simply segregate multiple installs.

First you will need to organise your install folders and the same for the 'hidden' user folder(s).

I have Thetis for Anan as I have an Anan 200D and also Thetis for Hermes-Lite 2 as I have an HL2.
I install Thetis for Anan as per normal and create a desktop shortcut for it.
Rename the Anan Thetis desktop shortcut to Thetis 200D (for example).

Install Thetis for HL2 into their own seperate folders - I use C:\Thetis-HL2\Thetis_x64....
It's useful to keep seperate version folders so if one doesn't work so well, it's easy to revert.

Click any image to SUPERSIZE!






Inside each folder, find the Thetis.exe and right click on it, Send To > Desktop (create Shortcut).
On the desktop, rename the shortcut to Thetis-HL2-b2 (for example) or Thetis-HL2-b3 etc.

In Windows Explorer type %appdata% in the address bar and hit 'Enter' and then go into the OpenHPSDR folder
Create some new folders such as Thetis-x64-HL2-b2 etc
In my example below, I have one folder for 'normal' Thetis for Anan and then additional ones for Thetis for HL2.



Now, back to the desktop shortcuts, this is where the 'magic' happens.
For each HL2 shortcut, add something like this to the end of the text in the Target field...
 -datapath:"%appdata%\OpenHPSDR\Thetis-x64-HL2-b3"
Obviously, the name after the last backslash ( \ ) part must correctly match each folder name.

The whole line should look something like this...
C:\Thetis-HL2\Thetis_x64_2_10_3_4-HL2-beta3\Release\Thetis.exe -datapath:"%appdata%\OpenHPSDR\Thetis-x64-HL2-b3"
Don't forget the critical 'space' after ...\Thetis.exe above.




You can now start the required version of Thetis and the first time it is run, it will create a new wisdom file for that version - you can copy an existing HL2 wisdom file from one folder to another to prevent the time consuming creation.
A new database will be created inside each new 'hidden' folder so each is now independant of one another.



Wednesday, 13 December 2023

WSPR Tx-Rx on a Raspberry Pi

 Raspberry Pi4 running Quisk and WSJT-X connected over the network to my Hermes-Lite 2 as a WSPR transmitter and receiver.  I use VNC viewer to connect to the R-Pi remotely as it's running headless.

Quisk is really useful as it creates a pair of 'virtual audio cables' for digital modes making it very easy to link to WSJT-X as audio is otherwise a nightmare in Linux.
I've left it running 24/7 for a couple of days.

Can only get the power down to 0.5W on the HL2 but have also connected the R-Pi to my Radioberry and with no PA connected it only produces ~10mW, but still getting spots on every continent.

Antenna is a 1/4 wave vertical for 40m used for 15m as well.  I guess the antenna works quite well.

Amazing what you can do on the 'grey line' - the difference is night and day!

Click images to SUPERSIZE






Tuesday, 29 August 2023

K3NG keyer

K3NG keyer using boards by UN7FGO and an Arduino Nano

Click any image to go SUPERSIZE


I ordered a set of boards via JLCPCB in China (5 of each board for ~£21 delivered)

Main board
https://oshwlab.com/UN7FGO/K3NG_KEYER_V2_1

Control board
https://oshwlab.com/UN7FGO/K3NG_EXT_PANEL_2

Front & back panels
https://oshwlab.com/UN7FGO/K3NG_PANELS_CHINA_PROFILE

The schematics in the above links will give you the components needed to complete the keyer.
Obviously some of the components can be omitted from the main board PCB as they are reproduced on the control board PCB.

My case came from Amazon UK but can also be found on other sites
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B098TNTGFP

All other parts came from my parts stock or from Amazon/ebay etc.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FXXPGKM

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SSLZX77

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008DS11IQ

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125216704009


The black front & back PCB panels do need saw cutting through the middle and sanding down to finish them.

Once assembled and the code loaded, it turned out rather well.
I 3D printed the various spacers I needed (bright orange !)
The front panel buttons I had were too short really and buttons that are 12mm or longer, as listed above would have been better - mine were 8mm (3D printer to the rescue again).





The main code can be obtained from here...

The following changes need to be made to the code...

In the KEYER_PIN_SETTING.H file, specify the microcontroller contacts, as they are organized in this device:

define paddle_left 6

define paddle_right 5

define tx_key_line_1 12

define sidetone_line 4

define potentiometer A0

define ptt_tx_1 11

define analog_buttons_pin A1

define command_mode_active_led 7

define ps2_keyboard_data 2

define ps2_keyboard_clock 3

The remaining contact names must be set to "0".



In the KEYER_FEATURES_AND_OPTIONS.H file, specify the device options used by removing the "//" sign in front of them:

define FEATURE_BUTTONS

define FEATURE_COMMAND_MODE

define FEATURE_MEMORIES

define FEATURE_MEMORY_MACROS

define FEATURE_POTENTIOMETER

define FEATURE_PS2_KEYBOARD

All other options must be commented out with "//".

When choosing a set of desired functions, be careful, because not all of the desired set will fit into the memory of the Arduino Nano microcontroller.



In the KEYER_SETTINGS.H file, you must specify the following parameters for variables:

define potentiometer_change_threshold 1.0

define default_ptt_hang_time_wordspace_units 1.0

define potentiometer_always_on 1

define analog_buttons_number_of_buttons 6

define analog_buttons_r1 10

define analog_buttons_r2 1

All other parameters can be left unchanged.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Modified for internal sidetone... cut 2 tracks and add wires as pic



Yellow wire goes to one of those LM386 audio modules and outputs to an old laptop speaker... works fine!